Yokohama's Signature Foods: Shumai, Napolitan & Sanma-men
Yokohama, the city of the open port, has long been a launchpad for food too. Western dishes arrived and were reshaped in Japanese style, and the port town grew local specialties all its own. Let's savor the stories behind the flavors born in Yokohama.
There are surprisingly many tales of "that dish actually started in Yokohama."
From Western fare born in its hotels to noodles beloved by locals, we trace the roots of Yokohama's signature foods.
Western Dishes Born in a Hotel
Doria
It is said to have begun when the first executive chef, Saly Weil, improvised the dish for a guest who had fallen ill. Buttered rice is topped with creamed shrimp and baked in the oven.
Source:ホテルニューグランド 公式「発祥の伝統料理」
Spaghetti Napolitan
After the war, the second executive chef, Shigetada Irie, is said to have reworked it in earnest using tomato ketchup, inspired by how American soldiers ate. Today it has spread nationwide as a coffee-shop staple.
Source:ホテルニューグランド 公式「発祥の伝統料理」
Pudding à la Mode
During the Occupation, this assorted dessert was devised to delight the wives of officers. Its hallmark is a large dish artfully arranged with pudding, ice cream, and fruit.
Source:ホテルニューグランド 公式「発祥の伝統料理」
Soul Food of the Port Town
Shumai
Kiyoken, founded at Yokohama Station in 1908, put this specialty on sale in 1928. Combining pork with dried scallop, it was crafted in a bite-size form that tastes good even when cold. It is also known nationwide through the "Shumai Bento."
Source:崎陽軒 公式「崎陽軒の歩み」
Sanma-mensanma-men
This is an ankake ramen in which a thickened sauce of stir-fried meat and vegetables is ladled over soy-sauce-flavored noodles. Said to have originated in Yokohama, it is a regional flavor that took root widely in Chinese restaurants across Kanagawa Prefecture.
Source:農林水産省「うちの郷土料理 サンマーメン（神奈川県）」
Yokohama Iekei Ramenyokohama iekei ramen
This ramen is defined by its tonkotsu soy-sauce broth, thick noodles, and toppings such as spinach. "Yoshimuraya," founded in Shin-Sugita in 1974, is said to be the pioneer, and the style has since grown into a major nationwide genre.
Source:横浜市観光情報「横浜発祥のグルメ」
FAQ
Where can I get an overview of foods that originated in Yokohama?
Yokohama City's tourism website has a timeline of these foods, letting you trace the origin of each dish. The area around Yamashita Park is easy for finding hotel-born Western dishes, while the city streets are the place to look for local noodles.
Can you still eat these original Western dishes and local foods today?
Yes. Doria and Napolitan can be enjoyed at the restaurants of the Hotel New Grand. Shumai is available at Kiyoken shops and station kiosks, and sanma-men and iekei ramen can be enjoyed every day at specialty shops around the city.
Is Napolitan a different thing from Italian pasta?
They come from different origins. Napolitan is a Japan-born dish prepared with tomato sauce, and it helps to think of it as a separate lineage from traditional Italian pasta.
Where does the name "iekei" come from?
It is generally said to derive from the spread of shops, starting with the pioneer, that include the character "ya" (家, "house") in their names.